As soon as we’d taken our seats in the Mud Dock, the Egg Poacher declared it was like “sitting in the Death Star” – mercifully a reference to the giant circular window looking out towards the Thekla, and not a tyrannical manager with a thing for patent leather. In fact, the views are one of the best things about the place; there’s a large patio overlooking the harbour that’s popular in summer, and even we were bathed in intermittent rays from our spot inside. Working through our first coffees of the morning (bean freaks may wish to order double shots to wake up properly), we perused a short brunch menu with a traditional bent. As the fresh croissants were busy being baked we opted for a pig fest instead: my bacon and eggs (cooked to within an inch of their lives, at my request) were fine, though the toast a little pallid for my liking. EP’s full English had all the reconstituted swine you’d expect, but there’s better black pudding to be found in town. The staff were polite and efficient, and softly playing world music brought a pleasant summer feel to a squally January day. It’s not cheap, so expect to pay for your setting – though that in itself is rather lovely. We were free to read the broadsheets back to back while tables started to fill around us and our waiter even helped with a crossword clue or two. Breakfast here is perfectly acceptable, though it’s not one of my favourite spots. It is, however, ideal for those on two wheels: the co-owned Bike Shed below can service your bicycle while you dine.
Price: from £3.50 (croissants with jam) to £7.95 (Big Breakfast).